Tip:- 1 Socialise and humanise
Remember that before you start any basics, let your new puppy enjoy being a puppy. Allow it to play and to socialise with young children and adults alike. Introduce it to other pets you might have and to introduce it to differant noices within the family home, such as the noise of the washing machine and hoover. etc. Allow it to 'play' with balls and puppy dummies to get it used to carrying things. Remember though, dont allow the puppy toys or balls on a permanant basis, or this could bore the dog or on the other hand, it could make the dog keen and possessive. Around 4 / 6 months of age, introduce your puppy to the 'hup' command, the stop whistle and the recall command, which is explained below:-
Tip:- 2 Walking your dog to heel on the lead
Using a slip lead, place the lead over the neck of the puppy correctly with the loop end under the neck thus ensuring that the dog does not choke on release of the slip lead after correction.
Train the dog to walk on the left-hand side for a right-handed gun and on the right-hand side for the left-handed gun. Walk straight alongside a wall or a fence with the dogs head positioned in the area of the knee of the handler. Use the word 'heel' as a correction when required and tension the lead as necessary. Gradually the word 'heel' will only be required on starting to walk and the dog should walk close to heel in the area of the handlers knee on a slack lead. Introduce the dog, by walking at heel on the lead, to people and traffic,initially in a relatively quiet urban area then progressing to a busy area.
Tip:- 3 Walking your dog off the lead to heel
Work alongside a wall or fence Initially, lightly wrap the lead around the dogs neck leaving a loose end, so that the pup still thinks the lead is held by the handler and this gives the handler something to hold if required. When confident remove the lead and allow it to be held loosely over the dogs neck then down the side of the handlers leg nearest to the wall. As the dog progresses use the word 'heel' sparingly. When you start to have confidence at heel start to walk away from the wall in the open.
Tip:- 4 Sitting to command
Ideally start by walking the dog off the lead, stop walking and immediately give one long blast on the whistle, say 'Hup' and show your raised right hand to the dog (if dog is on the left) when standing at the side of the dog. Repeat as necessary to gain obedience. Progress the dog to sitting without command when the handler stops walking, by dropping the commands one-by-one.
Tip:- 5 Remaining on the drop
Use the word 'hup' and raised hand to instruct the dog to stay in the sitting position. Initially, back away with a raised hand and keep looking at the dog with decreasing use of the word 'hup'. When confident that the dog will stay, walk away with your back to the dog, occasionally glancing back and using the word 'hup' and raised hand as required. Aim to be able to walk away with your back to the dog for a distance of around 100 yards without glancing back or giving a command. Turn to face the dog and have him/her hold the sitting position whilst you stand alone or talk to someone for the next 3 to 5 minutes. Slowly return to the dog and give plenty of praise, then release from the sitting position by walking to heel.
Additional training for steadiness at this stage includes:-
a). sit the dog and walk around him/her in circles of increasing radiuses of up to 20 yards then 30 yards. Walk clockwise and anti-clockwise. Keep your eye continually on the dog and use the raised hand as necessary. Ensure that the dog does not turn round or move by use of the word 'no'.
b). sit the dog and throw dummies/tennis balls around him/her at various distances from the dog, say 1 yard to 20 yards away. Ensure that the dog does not move by use of the word 'no'.
When the dog moves without a command to do so, discipline him/her by placing the dog back on the original spot, shake gently by the scruff and say 'hup' in a firm voice.
Tip:- 6 Retrieving
At first teach the retrieve on a narrow track that is:
a). protected on either side of the handler, thus preventing the dog from running away to the side on returning with retrieve.
b). protected at the back of the handler - say up against a fence, gate or wall, thus preventing the dog from running past the handler on returning with the retrieve.
c). In relatively short grass to enable the dog to easily see the retrieve.
Sit the dog then throw a dummy/tennis ball a few yards up the track. After 10 to 15 seconds send
the dog by:-
a). Stating his/her name (seen retrieves should be by name only).
On picking the retrieve encourage the dog back to you by either:-
a). three pips on the whistle,also using his/her name
b). tap your thigh and repeat as required
c). always remember to give your dog plenty of praise
Take the dummy/ball from the dog with great care using the word 'dead'. Ideally the dog to be in the sitting position when handing the dummy/ball to the handler.
Gradually:-
a). increase the distance of the thrown dummy/ball.
b). increase the time the dog is held prior to going for the retrieve to promote steadiness.
Once you are confident that the dog will retrieve on a track - known as straight lining - attempt the retrieve of a dummy in an open field where the grass is fairly short and the dummy can be easily seen.
Tip:- 7 Dropping at a distance
Drop or sit the dog, walk away about 20 yards, whistle the dog up (3 pips of the whistle repeated only if necessary), and when the dog is almost up to you give one long blast on the whistle and use the verbal command to 'hup' with raised hand. Repeat the procedure by walking away, whistle the dog up once more, (3 pips) and then use the stop command (one long blast on the whistle) and try and increase the distance between you and your dog as you gain confidence. Now let the dog run without restraint, then suddenly give your command to stop. The dog should drop without hesitation.
Tip:- 8 Direction and control
Sit the dog in front of a wall or fence and walk back 10 yards to a marked position with the dog facing the handler. Initially the lesson ought to be taught in a short grass field where there is not much cover to conceal the dummy.
Throw a dummy to the right and after a short pause give a clear signal by throwing an extended right arm, with palm of hand facing the dog, in the direction of the dummy and give the command 'get right' or 'get on' to retrieve.Repeat as required until you are confident your dog has understood this command.
On completing the retrieve take the dog back to the original position. This time throw the dummy to the left and after a short pause give a clear signal by throwing an extended left arm, with palm of hand facing the dog, in the direction of the dummy and give the command 'get left' or 'get on' to retrieve.
Once the retrieve to right and left is mastered the handler can teach the dog to go back. Move the dogs position slightly and sit him/her sideways next to the wall or fence, throw the dummy straight over the dogs head, landing to the back of the dog and after a short pause raise your hand/arm up high and push your hand forward, using the verbal command 'back'.
Ultimately the dog will eventually be able to work with three thrown dummies as stated and retrieve in the order of the handler commands - this is know as 'the three card trick'
Patience is requied from the handler in mastering this lesson at close range. When completed at close range, sit the dog and walk further away from him/her and throw the dummies a greater distances. Remember to hold the dog for a few seconds each time, before sending the dog for the dummies in order to promote steadiness.
Tip:- 9 Retrieving blinds
Ranging out and retrieving previously hidden dummies at a distance is an extension of the work outlined on Tip:- 8, dealing with direction and control. In this lesson the dog relies entirely on the handler.The dog should range out quite easily if the last lesson has been properly learnt.
Before sending your dog for its first blind retrieveI, it is important to correctly line the dog up paralell to the handler, then slowly move your right hand slightly in front of your dogs face which will then make your dog look in the direction that you are pointing to (the blind).Then release your dog by giving the command 'back'. Also try to place the blind dummies at the side of a wall or fence at first, then send your dog back along the wall to promote straight lining.
Clear hand signals and use of the stop whistle are of paramount importance in this lesson. Should the dog appear to not understand what is being asked of him/her move towards the dog to assist in the early stages.
Once the dog has retrieved a blind and realises he has not been sent on a wild goose chase, confidence will become established. The dog will begin to range out in a more willing manner knowing there is a reward in the form of a retrieve at the end.
Facing heavy cover is not enjoyed by some Labradors retrievers hence it is wise to introduce them to varying forms of cover by slow degree at an early age. The commands when working in cover are as for normal retrievng.
Tip:- 10 Overview
To repeat the earlier lessions from time to time is good from a training point of view. It is an advatage to continually reassess each stage of training and pay particular attention to any areas of weakness that may be creeping in.
When training your puppy the handler may experience frustrations. It would be better to stop the training rather then 'take it out' on the dog.
General Note:-
Under normal circumstances, allow around 4 to 6 months to cover the Basic Training as outlined.
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